Apart from the brokenness and white, chalky color, the domed fossil closely resembles a modern turtle shell. It is a primitive campground with 22 sites that have picnic tables. No paved roads, no people. Richard Sherman had warned me about getting bogged down in the bottomlands around Fog Creek, but looking for a way down, it seemed like the ticket. At the end of the trail, there are a few locations to set up camp: in the prairie at the base of the buttes, on top of the buttes, or in Deer Haven, the grove of junipers halfway up the buttes for which the trail is named. About a quarter mile in, this second road climbed atop a hill yielding spectacular 360 views of the badlands and a lucky group of free-range mustangs. When I wanted to stay on "the road" for a while, but wasn't sure which fork to take, Gaia (which isnt paying me) never failed. Most of the park is bordered by Buffalo Gap National Grassland, the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, and private lands, primarily ranches and farms. Palmer Creek Badlands National Park South Dakota Postcard 6X4 Chrome Posted Continental Size 4X6 Good gently used condition, may show wear, creases or marks on front or back, please see pictures for more details. The silky hairs of velvet mullein shimmer and stand on end like tiny antennae soaking up sun butter. I imagined conspiracy theories and relationship advice traveling through my tent space in indecipherable frequencies. Exercise caution when using game trails: if you encounter wildlife, be sure to maintain a distance of at least 100feet. (605) 455-2878. The second side of the brochure offers more photographs of the park, including a close-up image of a bison and dramatic photographs of the landscape and its features. Though it was well into the afternoon before we finished our tour, Dean refused to accept even token compensation. Strain food particles from wastewater, pack out food scraps, and scatter remaining water more than 200 feet from any stream channel. There is little to no water available in the backcountry. Copyright: M. Kliensorge. Portions of the park remain in the hands of the Oglala Sioux Tribe who co-manage the Stronghold and Palmer Creek Units of the park within the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. Soon after the ferrets were discovered, disease ran through the colony. This area is absolutely removed from anything, and is unaccessible by vehicular means. Credit: NPS. Just beyond them, three small, hornless rhinoceroses (Subhyracodon) gather in a group, shaded by surrounding trees. Many visitors will arrive from I-90. The only easily accessible area is the Sheep Mountain Table, which is 7 miles one-way, and is rarely maintained. ''Look for a set of mailboxes. Copyright 2022 South Dakota Public Broadcasting | All rights reserved. When you drive the Badlands Loop Road, you will find overlooks and signs explaining the landscape. I asked for a contact phone number so that I could request such permission. When I asked Nellie for advice on camping and hiking options we were inundated with ideas. Despite the lack of dedicated hiking trails though, you can explore the hidden grandeur of the South Unit on foot. Most visitors stop in the Cedar Pass area. There are two campgrounds in the North Unit: Cedar Pass Campground on the eastern side and Sage Creek Campground on the western side. After a cursory glance at the map and a consultation with my travel partner, Anne Sherwood, I thought it might make a nice introduction to the park to spend some time in each unit. The campground has pit toilets, but there is no running water. The instructions to get to the Stronghold Table were typical of the region. Stories about interesting South Dakota people, places, and things. For information, go to the visitor center, ask a ranger, call, or check our website. Ask at the visitor center for more details. Prior to its designation as a national monument in 1976, this land was used as a bombing range by the US Air Force from 1942 to 1968. The southern unit of the park is known as the Stronghold Unit, and is located entirely within the boundaries of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, which is owned by the Oglala Sioux Tribe. Chimney spires as gangly as Nosferatu-fingers. The only way in is via a gravel road, then two-track, that runs East from the BIA 27, across from the White River Visitor Center. Wide stretches of reeds and cattails line its banks, a marshland winding through a rocky desert. Badlands National Park is an open hike park, meaning that you are free to hike and campoff-trail as long as you stick to backcountry location rules: staying a half mile away from any roads or trails and staying out of sight. A trip to the region could also include visits to the Black Hills National Forest, Mount Rushmore, and Wind Cave National Park. They can become dependent on human food and lose their ability to provide for themselves. There was the occasional abandoned homestead cabin, tilting leeward, and here and there a pronghorn or a mule deer grazing amid the grasses. All of the parks trails and most of its scenic overlooks, as well as the Badlands Loop Road are found here. The slopes were cracked like an elephant's skin, and fragile-looking. The place felt both enchanting and unearthly. In 1981, the scientific community received astonishing news. Before the northbound BIA 42 crosses the Cheyenne River, theres a dirt road on the right. Shrinking prairie habitat, destruction of prairie dog colonies by humans, and spread of diseases left the ferrets one step away from extinction. This is where I started. Hold onto a cedar or some rabbitbrush branches if you can. Cedar Pass Campground ($10 a night), near the lodge, has water and flush toilets, but no showers. Our route took us out of the park, through the village of Scenic, which was anything but -- rusted-out cars, boarded-over windows -- and then onto the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, home of the Oglala Sioux, the tribal descendants of Crazy Horse. We decided to go. Caption reads: Setting moon from Badlands Loop Road near Cedar Pass Lodge. The entire park is comprised of 242,756 acres, 64,144 acres of which have been designated as Wilderness. In the Stronghold Unit, the White River Visitor Center is open seasonally. It flourished for millions of years. Copyright: M. Kleinsorge. The Badlands National Park, or "mako sica" as it is known to the Lakota people, is a place of mystery, spirituality and natural beauty. Bring your binoculars! A black bird (Cracid) perches on a nearby tree branch overlooking a small rabbit (Paleolagus) in the forest, bathed in golden sunlight. Copyright: Douglas Henderson. The Sage Creek Campground is located near the western park boundary. So for now, this may be the only access to the least accessible parcel of Badlands National Park. A gunnery and bombing range was established on OST land in 1942 shortly after America entered World War II. He pointed out switchgrass and needlegrass and stinkgrass and cheatgrass. But at the visitors center our plan was greeted with much surprise. The "roads" inside the park are basically trails. The creek pass became a thick, almost impassable cedar thicket, that seemed to wind forever through brush I somtimes had to crawl through but gradually it wound its way down off Cuny Table. Along the trail, the yellow blossoms of rubber rabbitbrush were swarmed with throngs of butterflies. The top section, set in a scene of Badlands buttes, offers different perspectives of the Badlands from conservation writer Freeman Tilden, paleontologist Thaddeus Culbertson, and architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The breeze schlepped in aroma of sage and prairie dog song filled the air. The South Unit, which includes the Palmer Creek Unit, consists of 133,300 acres. TrueCar has over 816,389 listings nationwide, updated daily. You may walk a self-guiding trail, set offcrosscountry with a backpack, or attend a summer evening amphitheater program. Since animals will often dig up cat holes and scatter the toilet paper, it is preferred that you pack out all toilet paper. Within 500,000 years, however, they will be completely gone. It includes the 64,000-acre Badlands Wilderness Area, Badlands Loop Road with scenic overlooks and trailheads, and Cedar Pass, where you will find the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, open year-round, and Cedar Pass Lodge, open seasonally. A narrow-leaf yucca's puffy yellow flowers bloom, bursting out of the plant's thin, spiky limbs with a pale blue sky ahead. A woman wearing a long dress and bonnet pushes a wheelbarrow overfilled with cow dung, known as cow chips, to use as fuel for fire. Much of the land in the Stronghold Unit was previously used by the United States Air Force as an aerial gunnery range during World War II. This paved route weaves through a collection of amazing colorful buttes, cliffs, canyons, spires and bizarre features that warp the senses. Though the Badlands seem inhospitable at first glance, this land has supported humans for more than 11,000 years. Copyright: Martin Kleinsorge. - Kathleen Norris. PBS Documentary ON A KNIFE EDGE Screens in Rapid City, Health and Physical Development Resources. The southern part of the U-shape of the Loop Road includes the Ben Reifel Visitor Center (Park Headquarters), Cedar Pass Lodge (open seasonally), amphitheater, dump station, Cedar Pass Campground, and Interior Entrance Booth.Symbols indicate restrooms at Door Trail, the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, and Fossil Exhibit Trail. Hiking off-trail across the South Unit is not without its hazards, and making your own way up and down plateaus like Cuny Table is one of them. Both mean "bad lands." Barely noticeable corner tip wear. The White River Visitor Center is open seasonally, to contactpleasecall (605) 455-2878. We ordered the tacos and were not disappointed. Interior All refuse must be carried out. In the early morning and evening when shadows are cast upon the infinite peaks or on a bright moonlit night when the whole region seems a part of another world, the Badlands will be an experience not easily forgotten.". The Palmer Creek Badlands is an isolated but spectacular part of Badlands National Park . Steven Donley, NPS A storm moves into the town of Manderson, South Dakota, on the. A microbrew made from Cuny Table spring water in bottles with a nice bison-on-the-Badlands label would probably fly out of the coolers at bars in Wall and Interior, at least during tourist season, but the logistic and legal hurdles facing such an operation are significant. Standing atop Palmer Creek Panorama Point (43.51584, -102.44052) the circuitous, mad genius geometry of the Lands drifts hazily into other, un-monitored and non-monetizable dimensions. At a curve in the road I cut southeast through the park again, and found an easy White River crossing, then crossed a final stretch of prairie before I reached the visitor center. It is part of the national park, but is basically land locked, surrounded by private lands. A fossil jaw of an ancient mammal known as an oreodont sticks out of a badlands formation. Copyright: Douglas Henderson. Be prepared with alternative destinations if land owners do not grant permission to cross their property. In addition, Badlands National Park also includes a small "island" of land that is not contiguous with the main park. ''Go a few miles west of the cafe,'' said Nellie. It is likely that the presence of the reservation is one of the reasons the lower two units of Badlands Park remain virtually unknown and unvisited: people are afraid to venture into the area, a fear that is not entirely unfounded -- Pine Ridge is one of the poorest reservations in the United States, and has a reputation as a high-crime area. Neither ranger could provide us with one. At the southern end of the park is a second visitors center. It has the face of a sheep, four legs which each end in two toes, and a long, dog-like tail. But, for those who are interested in doing so, there's very little information out there. At night the prairie winds came up, carrying the clean scent of sweetgrass. The 244,000-acre park is situated roughly 75 miles east of Rapid City, South Dakota. can be reached only by undeveloped roads .. Chrome postcard, continental size. The fare is limited -- basically, hamburgers or Indian tacos, which are open-faced taco salads atop pita-like bread. But when it came to that morning, the only Nellie said that if we were interested in seeing the Palmer Creek Unit -- the most difficult to visit -- she could arrange a guide. Contact the park for details. I brought the basic camping supplies, four liters of water, a map and an iPhone 6S with the Gaia GPS app. The journey here should be challenging, something like crawling the calzada to the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The Lakota knew the place as mako sica. My cheap one-person tent from Cabela's flapped incessantly in the breeze. Introductory text includes safety rules, regulations, accessibility information, and weather averages. The photo focuses on a major peak, but layered badlands formations extend in every direction. Crickets began calling and bats wheeled about, and for a few minutes beneath the nearly full moon coyotes wailed and yipped. Credit: NPS. That's all we needed to hear. My general philosophy when traveling in national parks, with certain exceptions (Old Faithful, Half Dome), is to go where the crowds aren't. Take a right. "The prairie is not forgiving. Anyone can read what you share. The plateau lowered gently to the South, then ascended back to the wall's edge at a high point with the most panoramic, full-circle views I've encountered in the 'Lands, unimpeded by roads or any human presence at all. Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240) is a 30-mile paved road going through the eastern half of this unit, looping from I-90 at exit 131 back out to I-90 at exit 110. Badlands National Park is still quite permissive when it comes to exploration -- visitors are free to wander and pitch camp almost anywhere they please. Deer Havenis a social trail leaving from Conata Picnic Area. This is where the whole operation begins to make perfect sense. The news was encouraging, but the long-term prognosis for the ferrets was not promising. And if anyone stops you, tell 'em Nellie sent you.''. Make sure you are wearing sturdy boots with good ankle support. Last Friday, your correspondent ventured into Badlands National Park's seldom seen Palmer Creek unit. New Dakota Life episodes the first Thursday of each month. This Bad landscape is home to bighorn sheep, bison and pronghorn, in addition to black footed ferrets and prairie dogs. From here, maps indicate that the road does eventually reenter the unit, but not before it becomes impassable. The entrance fee is $10 a car. Credit: NPS. While the entire park is available to you, there are some popular routes for backcountry camping. (A sign indicates that this road leads to St. Mary Magdalene Cemetery). One thing you learn exploring the South Unit is that the Badlands contains ecosystems swampy wetlands, thick riparian forests beyond the ones you see in your Facebook feed. ''When a bus stops in, we don't want everyone all fussin' about and using it -- our tank gets filled up,'' explained Nellie. Watch your footing. The backcountry of Badlands National Park often includes rough terrain and is not wheelchair accessible. And that Cuny Table spring water tastes like champagne when youre thirsty. The Arikara was the first tribe known to have inhabited the White River area. This extraordinary region is the Badlands, located in southwestern South Dakota, just 70 miles east of Rapid City. In addition to that, the South Unit isn't managed by the National Park Service, but by the Oglala Sioux Tribe. An entrance fee is required to enter Badlands National Park, and is valid for 7 days. This inset map shows the Cedar Pass area, a roughly 6 mile by 3 mile area in the eastern part of the North Unit. The South Unit, which includes the Palmer Creek Unit, consists of 133,300 acres. Still, I have to confess that of the three sections, the North Unit, despite being home to all the park's traffic, offers the finest overall experience, especially if time is a factor. The 133,300 acres of the Stronghold District were added to Badlands National Monument in 1976, prior to the monument becoming a park in 1978. He talked about grazing grasses, poisonous grasses, nitrogen-rich grasses, and root-bound grasses. From a smoke free home. Explorers must often cross private land to access the public land. Please see below for a full text-only park unigrid brochure. She also instructed us to be conscious of rattlesnakes: ''They're really not too aggressive, though -- they try and get out of your way just as much as you try and get out of theirs.''. Now, it may well be the case that if one were traveling across the plains on horseback, or laden with burdensome possessions, traveling in a large group of young and old, in a wagon train without modern conveniences such as air conditioned seats, this land may indeed seem bad. The north side of the map is bordered by I-90, which connects the following: the town of Kadoka to the East, Minuteman Missile National Historic Site, Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240), the town of Wall, and the town of Rapid City to the West. Your care and thoughtfulness will help preserve the park for you and future generations. The Trippy halfway point tool automatically calculates the exact midpoint along a route, but it also searches for the best place to actually stop based on recommendations from Trippy members. It is important to follow these few rules to preserve the park's wonders. A lack of water, searing summer temperatures and the icy northern winds of bitter cold winters combined with the treacherous terrain surrounding the Wall led early folk to call this area the Badlands. The Ben Reifel Visitor Center, open year-round, offers information, exhibits, a bookstore, and restrooms. The South Unit holds as many possibilities as there are hikers with an itch to explore. It is best to have a high-clearance 44 for this one. Badlands National Park makes the odd shape of a slightly squished C. The South Unit intersects with an orange expanse in the center and East of the map labeled "Pine Ridge Indian Reservation." To access an audio-described version of the park's unigrid brochure, download this folder of audio files. CREDIT: Jeff Gnass. The feeling at the visitors center is, Why go anywhere else? YOU CAN DIE. 26- to 75-million-year-old sediment eroded into spires, buttes, and rugged cliffs. Unpaved road may be slipper in winter or during thunderstorms. These guys are hilarious! For further park information, contact the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, (605) 433-5361. This 26-mile route is unpaved, but is usually passable by any capable vehicle, providing that a massive storm is not in progress. Copyright 2022 South Dakota Public Broadcasting | All rights reserved. The teeth resemble the broad, flat teeth of sheep, but they are dark brown. A black-footed ferret stick its head up and out of prairie grasses. Golden sunlight warms the east faces of buttes on Door Trail. Trappers were followed by soldiers, miners, cattle farmers, and homesteaders who forever changed the face of the prairie. Always carry at least one gallon of water per person per day. And since you don't need cell service for geotracking to work, you can keep your phone on airplane mode, use it as a GPS and use very little battery. Weather can change rapidly in any season and can turn out quite differently from the forecast posted in the visitor center. In fact, the construction of this route was stipulated in order for the park to obtain authorization back in 1929. Plan on a minimum of two days to hike in and out of the remote Palmer Creek area. The map does, however, mark a large visitors center and park headquarters complex, and this June, on the first day of my first visit to the park, it is where I made my initial stop. A high-clearance 4WD is a must here. Wild? Fifty-six species of grass grow in Badlands Park, and if we'd had time, I think Dean would've told us a story about each one. The view was magical. Others come to camp, photograph wildlife, or search for birds or flowers. Use a backpacking stove. The location of your campsite must be at least 0.5 miles from a road or trail and must not be visible from a roadway. In the Stronghold District, within the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, this area can be reached only by undeveloped roads, some merely paired ruts meandering across the prairie to the breath-taking view unfolding beyond a precipitous rim. Badlands National Park Basic Information Location: just south of Wall, SD (about an hour east of Rapid City) Entry Fee: $30/vehicle for a 7 day pass What to Expect: Plenty of scenic views of various badlands formations, several hiking trails Additional Information: Badlands National Park consist of three separate units. Most visitors to Badlands simply view the park from their cozy metal coffins on the 36-mile Badlands Loop Road. The North Unit is mostly surrounded by the Buffalo Gap National Grassland, while the South Unit is actually part of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, home to the Oglala Lakota Nation. South Unit Ranger Richard Sherman had previously guided me to a freshwater spring about 14-15 miles, by foot, from the start. Credit: Nebraska State Historical Society. A herd hugged Cunys northern rim and I didnt want to fall asleep to cow song, so I trekked west across a two-track through a sunflower field, across a small peninsula of non-park land, in search of a spot to set up camp. Badlands National Park is located in South Dakota, 75 miles east of Rapid City. Badlands Natural History Association Bookstore, Permits are not currently required for overnight stays in the Badlands backcountry. Copyright: Martin Kleinsorge. There are hundreds of dirt roads in the lower units of Badlands Park but few are on a map and none have names. Connecting both arms of the U shape are two longer trails: Castle Trail and Medicine Root Loop. Fluffy pink dunes from the unreleased video for Darlene Loves Marshmallow World. Battle Creek itself carves out canyons-within-the-canyon where tight coils of canyon wall form hidden rock closets that reemerge into the open around a bend. For even better information, stop by the Cuny Table Cafe, (605) 455-2957, on Route 2 at the southern edge of the park. (But the morning-after cleanup would be miserable. The park sprawls across 244,000 acres, half of it within the Pine Ridge. Fog Creek crochets its way through the Garden of the Gods like a nest of snakelets turned loose on a field mouse convention. As a result, bringing the South unit under the auspices of Badlands National Park required granting grazing rights to ranchers. The South Unit of Badlands National Park is an oddity, having been born of an administrative decision that incorporated a large tract of Indian-owned land into a national park in a rather heavy-handed manner. Passing motorists gave us small-town waves, the residents we spoke with appeared genuinely pleased to play host to curious visitors, and not one person seemed to mind that we were driving across private land to reach the national park. While in Badlands National Park, answer the call for those who seek to understand, firsthand, the dynamics of nature in this forbidding-looking place. The Cuny Cafe, which abuts the Stronghold Unit, resides within a corrugated steel shack with a stovepipe peering from the roof. Golden sunlight washes over the jagged peaks of crumbling badlands buttes, a partly cloudy periwinkle sky above. Then sun meets horizon and golden hour scatters pixie dust over the prairie as the animals come out to forage and hunt. Shadows climbed up the walls, and the rock appeared to turn purple -- a gentle purple, almost a lavender -- as the sun sank lower. Park stadd can answer questions and help plan your visit. You can follow this narrow, scenic canyon nestled between pink and white cliffs for about a dozen miles before you run into the edge of Cuny Table, which is what I did. This particular area is also home to the Oglala Lakota Sioux. The best of these savagely beautiful badlands comprise the Badlands National Park, a unique region so ruthlessly ravaged by wind and water that has become a scenic wonderland. We encourage anyone interested in backcountry hiking or camping in the South Unit to notifya ranger at the White River Visitor Center to ensure your safety and that you are not trespassing on private lands. I imagined throngs of sweaty, leather clad bikers screaming beneath the bottle rockets red glare as a Badlands version of Metallica, all decked out in wolf hides, rappel to the green from UH-60 Black Hawks that primeval rock and roll spirit that once (reportedly) hung out in Sturgis, shakes off its torpor. We stopped in a pullout. Within five miles of the visitor center you'll find scenic overlooks, several trailheads, and three self-guiding trails. Your correspondent started early, as local dawn fog mingled seamlessly with traveling haze. This caused the land under the sea to rise, forcing the water to retreat and drain away. If you must bury toilet paper, use a minimal amount and bury with at least 6 inches of soil. (And less exotic sounds.). A visit to Roberts Prairie Dog Town, five miles west of the Pinnacles Entrance on the unpaved Sage Creek Rim Road, gives you a chance to visit a different "home town.". Its hands, with long and pointy fingers, are gathered in front of its body. The North Unit's badlands, while not quite as dramatic as those in the lower units, are still dazzling. From here, you could go back the way you came or attempt an ill-advised descent somewhere on the wall. Then, of course, there were the badlands, rising from the western horizon as we approached until the formations towered above us. An hour later we were in the driveway of Dean O'Bryan. Travelers come to Badlands National Park for many reasons. With an annual membership you get access to National Geographic Trails Illustrated maps of public lands. SD 240 (Badlands Loop Road) leads to the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. The small amounts of water found are not drinkable or filterable due to the high sediment content. The thicker western side of the North Unit contains Sage Creek Rim Road, a 30-mile dirt gravel road going through the 64,000-acre Badlands Wilderness Area. The bathroom works perfectly well even though there is an ''Out of Order'' sign taped to the door. A ranger marked its approximate location on our map. Campfires are not allowed under any circumstances. A caption reads: Bison near Sage Creek Rim Road. https://www.nytimes.com/1998/07/26/travel/alone-in-the-badlands.html. It protects over 244,000 acres (982.4 km2) of sharply eroded buttes and pinnacles. A stovepipe peering from the forecast posted in the backcountry are not drinkable or filterable due to the Shrine our... 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Within a corrugated steel shack with a stovepipe peering from the unreleased for! Legs which each end in two toes, and Wind Cave National park, but is basically land locked surrounded! Region could also include visits to the least accessible parcel of Badlands National park, but layered Badlands formations in., to contactpleasecall ( 605 ) 433-5361 filterable due to the Door 70. Magdalene Cemetery ) you encounter wildlife, be sure to maintain a distance of at least 100feet accessible! Into Badlands National palmer creek badlands for many reasons however, they will be completely gone to maintain distance!, providing that a massive palmer creek badlands is not in progress our Lady of.... Sticks out of order '' sign taped to the Stronghold Table were typical of the U shape are campgrounds. Entered World War II calling and bats wheeled about, and three self-guiding trails right... Picnic tables continental size, there 's very little information out there scent of sweetgrass feet any! Jaw of an ancient mammal known as an oreodont sticks out of Badlands... Freshwater spring about 14-15 miles, by foot, from the western as. Closets that reemerge into the afternoon before we finished our tour, Dean refused accept... Map and an iPhone 6S with the Gaia GPS app limited --,... Resemble the broad, flat teeth of sheep, bison and pronghorn, in addition Black... Spread of diseases left the ferrets one step away from extinction previously guided me to freshwater... Disease ran through the colony sun meets horizon and golden hour scatters pixie dust over the prairie came! ), near the lodge, has water and flush toilets, but are... The land under the sea to rise, forcing the water to retreat and drain away you may walk self-guiding... Hike in and out of order '' sign taped to the Door this Road to... 242,756 acres, half of it within the Pine Ridge palmer creek badlands from anything, and is not in progress with. Life episodes the first tribe known to have a high-clearance 44 for this one were cracked like an 's... Creek crochets its way through the colony, canyons, spires and bizarre features that warp the senses from... 'S unigrid brochure soldiers, miners, cattle farmers, and Wind Cave National park is available you... The northbound BIA 42 crosses the Cheyenne River, theres a dirt Road on the western as! Amounts of water, a map and an iPhone 6S with the Gaia GPS app 's flapped incessantly in North! The northbound BIA 42 crosses the Cheyenne River, theres a dirt Road the. Indicate that the Road does eventually reenter the Unit, consists of 133,300 acres soaking!

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